Sunday, September 4, 2011

Corset boning

I am a great admirer of corsets, but I don't know too much about them. One thing I know for certain though- I HATE plastic boning! I'm all steel all the way.
Ahh, steel...

Now this is a corset. Look at it! It doesn't need you, it laughs at that thought. It can support itself. Why? Because it's as tough as steel. Hell, it can stand up straight as you would if you were wearing this thing. Thus why I hate plastic boning.

Plastic warps, it bends, it pokes, it wounds my sides, and it doesn't last very long at all. I find full steel corset bones to be more comfortable than this plastic Barbie hell digging itself into my spleen. I did a little research (very little research) and found out some things about different types of steel boning.

Spiral steel bones:
Spiral steel bones are a universal style bone used in many theaters and ballet companies. They support the garment but allow great mobility creating corsets that can be danced in and are comfortable to wear. If using these for bridal or in a white bodice, make sure they are well encased to avoid a shadow effect since the bones are gray.

Spiral bones have the most flexibility of all bones, being able to move both forwards and backwards and side to side. They are the best choice for a bodice that requires boning but is going to be worn for dance or other motion activities. They are not a good choice for front panels of bodices/corsets for women who wear a c-cup or more. Spiral bones are the most flexible and least supportive.

Spring steel bones:
The white steel boning, a.k.a. spring steel, flexes only forward and backward, not side to side, and are appropriate for the center backs of corsets where support is needed on either side of the grommets.

Spring Steel Bones are also known as "white" bones, this is for the obvious reason; they are white. The white however is only a plastic like nylon coating that protects the steel and inhibits rust. Spring steel bones should be quite rigid; able to flex but not easily bent. They flex only forward and back not from side to side. The thickness of the bone is very important, more so than the width *giggle*. Spring steel should be used down center back of all corsets.

Spring steel bones are the good stuff. Sturdy, long lasting, and dipped in a plastic coat so they are washable and won't get all rusty (like the spiral steel bones *leers*).

There are also some other special bones called Lacing Bones:

Basically, you put these suckers down the center back of your corset to reinforce your grommets. If you ever had a grommet that popped out of alignment of your corset, lo and behold your saviour! These are great support for long term lacing or "tight lacing".

And last and most certainly least, plastic boning:
Designed for flexible support, rust resistant, very flexible, not suitable for "waist reducing" corsets but, rather, is used to keep garments from rolling up. These bones cannot be sewn into curver channels, but are great if you live in a high voltage area.

Hope this has helped, happy lacing! <3!


CatacombKitten said...

I could't agree more, plastic boning annoys me. I had a 'corset' with plastic boning, and the bones started bending and in the end the bottom part of my 'corset' was bent outwards. It looked terrible.

Serenity said...

Yes! It always warps and ends up doing more bad than good. I learned this the hard way. <3!

DementiaKitty said...

great and informative post :)
I need to get more corsets >.<

Serenity said...

*Nods* Seriously, we all do. The world would be a better place. <3!

VictorianKitty (Sophistique Noir) said...

Excellent explanation on the different types of boning. Yep, I've had my days where I was being stabbed in the underarm with a sharp corner of plastic boning that had sawed its way out of its casing!! :) Steel-boned corsets are worth the money. You might get to own less variety because they cost more, but they are a worthwhile investment because they will last forever.

linnea-maria said...

Thanks for your interesting post about corset boning! I don't have a corset with steel boning but a vintage bustier and a vintage girdle. I sew a corset with plastic boning for myself, with four layers of fabric it was very sturdy and never rolled up or twisted. Someday I will save for a real steal boned one.

Underbust Corsets said...

This is really interesting to read its very nice post ! Hope you will post many more!


Kristal Schlichting said...

Just found your site trying to find information on making a corset. I was like, what the hell do you call these pokie long things... Bones! You have an awesome blog and the way you blog. Had to add. Ill post a pic when I finish mine! Thank you for your lol research. Very helpful!